FALL MENU RESEARCH

Thank you for dining with us at Archipelago. Our menu is driven by FilAm history in place, here in the Pacific Northwest. Beyond the archives and books used to guide this research, we honor the stories of community members still active - fighting to make the world better for all of us. Further, we thank all of our producers and food systems workers who make this experience possible. Our actions today shape history tomorrow - may the changing season bring you cherished beginnings.

Driving our menu forward this summer are the stories and places of ...

ASIN, FISH WARS, SANITARY MARKET, EPIC POEMS, TWINNED MOVEMENTS, BABAYLAN THEATER GROUP, PARUPARO, RIZAL PARK, RIZAL CLUB, THE BOXER, THE DOOR.

While you enjoy this deep-dive, listen to the Fall Experience that was played during your dinner.

MERYENDAS

ASIN

Thinking with the diaspora, prompts us to think across oceans. At Archipelago, we are reminded that our commitment to the Philippines is long term through recent events and explorations that the team took in August 2025. That blood is thicker than water, and there is salinity in both.

Salt is foundational to cuisine and to life. It carries signals, creates gradients, it extends and preserves both culture and product. In Filipino cuisine and culture, the word salt asin is also a verb meaning;

• To cook with salt

• To season with salt 

And it is foundational to the processes of the cuisine that have co-evolved with the climate they are born from. Plentiful fish, sour vegetables, and an ocean full of salt. Knowledge of preservation and salt creation passed down through generations of artisan families to create a sculptural masterpiece. Asin tibuok. Working with the artisanal process of salt is a great honor; and now a product that had been unknown to many due to stringent laws on importation, the asin tibuok has found a way to make it to market here.

In this course, we use salt as a technology to draw out complex flavors. To preserve and extend the late summer into fall harvest, and investigate processes that are at the core of Filipino food and cooking here in the northwest. Here, salt is the star and seasoning that allows us to use method distinctly Filipino and unique to us and that has always been at the core of our menu development working with artisanal producers. At Archipelago, we are lucky to have found a partner in San Juan Sea Salt, which we use for all of our products. Using local salt to draw out the nuances of our local ingredients allows us to further define the flavor of our region.

We encourage all guests to explore on their own and learn about Native history from Native scholars and community workers. Seattle has great examples, to start see:

• Native Land

• Suquamish Museum

• wǝɫǝbʔaltxʷ Intellectual House

• Real Rent Duwamish

 Course 2

FISH WARS

At Archipelago we recognize plainly that the abundance present in the PNW’s lands and waters is due critically to the presence and stewardship of native communities who have fought tirelessly to reclaim lands and rights promised to them, but subsequently stripped away.

In this course we honor the Fish Wars, a period of time which saw a lot of native resistance to the stripping away of treaty-promised fishing rights. (Dates) of the fish wars, (tribes) spearheading this campaign. Tactics used, solidarities formed, leaders established - and history made. Landmark legislation in WA called the Boldt Decision created the foundation for native fishing rights and now it is upheld as the gold standard to maintain rights to fish and thrive. 

There’s a great podcast resource that speaks with many leaders and describes the fish wars, its long history, and perspective from native leaders. Building from previous content seasons and conversations, we cannot think about restriction to fishing lands without going back to think about how the waterways of our communities have shifted over time. These waterways can be understood (here) in the changing waterways and waterlines project that we have investigated in previous seasons. 

Here we are reminded that fishing is an industry with a lot of challenges and complications. In 2023 fall, we were informed of the United 6; six Filipino fishermen who were abandoned in their fishing vessels - owed compensation from their employees, and it sparked an initial campaign that has burned bright here in Washington and inspired a renewed commitment to labor and migrant rights. You can read more about our initiative here. Especially now in Washington where there are strong campaigns to support migrant rights – especially leaders coming from the Fil-AM community.  

The push to create uniform, concrete market structures was piloted throughout the US’s colonial holdings at the turn of the 20th century. Perfecting the recipe for “Portland Cement” allowed for scale and efficiency in the construction of market infrastructure. Both in an attempt to control the spread of disease, and actually bring about a “westernization” of food itself, through corn and wheat in particular. The spread of diseases like cholera following the Spanish-American war and the Philippine-American war was of deep concern to US soldiers and administrators. The overall climate of disease prevention in the tropics as it relates to colonial panic about its subjects getting sick is considered well in books on the way that tropical diseases are framed as pathologies.

In the same way Bagio was set up as the headquarters of the non-tropical elite to find relief from oppressive heat, so too were markets. Set up so that they could be managed and understood, and more systematically policed. From the archives, we have images of new systems being established by Colonial Administrators and officers to carefully manage what is coming in and out of the markets, how meats and other things like that are stored. The idea of the sanitary market took off. 

Almost as if it was a school of thought. In Seattle, Pike Place is an iconic example of the sanitary market template. Designed to easily separate draft animals from their carts, and keep food and produce organized in a way that was easily and neatly stacked. You can still see the lettering that describes pike place as a “Sanitary Market” clearly on the side. 

Even though these markets were designed to establish neat colonial control, their grip only lasted so long. Like with all infrastructure, the best laid plans are often not the ones that come to fruition and people are much more creative with their alignments and needs. For Filipinos working in Sanitary markets, they have become an indispensable part of culinary traditions. 

Further, the similarity of market structures in the Philippines to those in the US allowed for folks to see similarities and opportunities at Pike Place market. Those who had connections to families that established themselves at these markets declared them to be “just like those in the Philippines.” Navigating owning ones own business and the intricate process of connecting farms to producers, to value added products, etc. allowed for many Filipino American families to thrive in Pike Place Market. 

For a bit more context, we also have some incredible connections to those Fil-Am business legends and the ways that they have created superb contributions to the seattle community and the broader pacific world. For example, we cannot forget about Oriental Mart and Auntie Lina, whose fresh Filipino Food based at pike place market is a treat to all.  

 Course 3

ZANTE FARM

COURSE 4

EPIC POEMS

Stories and legends transmit culture through time, and keep us grounded in our past but also looking forward. While we often explore how the impact of colonialism has affected Filipino culture and Filipino American culture, we rarely think about how cross cultural exchange can be a beautiful thing. And, oftentimes the record does not show it. History favors the drama and shock value of conquest and subjugation.

However, there is another side - one that is just as important and often overlooked. While there may not be as much written history, there is still deep impact and presence. Shared cultural connection, with bond as deep as the grooves in writing. Inscribed in a copper planet, some of the oldest written forms of language come together and merge in watery threads. Across the pacific trade routes, from India and Indonesia by way of language, culture and flavor, come poems of deep heroism, regard, and thunderous spirit. The Ibalong Epic of Bicol, the only region known for its spice and fiery wild chilis, also draws inspiration from the religious poems of the Baharama and Ramayana that are at the core of some Indian folk tradition. The words and themes themselves resonate forward, so too do the words, so too the flavors. A force of change, that is neither good nor bad, that is qualified through the long arc of time. Its impact, just being felt. 

Achar/a: the term has always fascinated me, as it was so similar to the word for pickle in Indian cuisine. Also, the pickling of fruits and vegetables together as a technique that produces unique flavors. Tracing this marriage of flavors, product, and time made this an especially fun challenge to work through,

The ideation of this dish was especially fun to work on with Kasey. As concepts were anchored in our menu seasons of past, it became clear that there would always be a strong connection and thread to impacts on the cuisine clearly from other communities and cultures. Typically, this exploration is to honor the chinese influence on the cuisine and handmade craft. While all aspects of the cuisine at archipelago pass through the hands of our talented team of chefs, our handmade and handcut miki noodles are the gold star of our craft. Every now and then, we like to give our miki master Louis Lin something new to struggle over. So this season, we feature a miki-molo, once the noodle-master, Louis becomes the molo-master. Pancit molo originated in the Molo district of Iloilo City in the western Visayas region of the Philippines - a region specifically influenced by Hokkien communities.

 Researching the applications of achar in indian cuisine, and being fascinated by the application of acahr as a sound base, produced a similar but markedly different flavor profile to sinigang. Delectably sour with an even-keeled funk that gave the dish a new edge. Anchoring the cuisine in stories and history we get to find and uncover new possibilities to bring stories and history to life.

COURSE 5

TWINNED MOVEMENTS

We seek out art for clarity, to refresh our minds and escape from the mundane. We often go to art to see inward and realize new truths about ourselves. Artists working in environments shaped by colonialism and shook through war and conflict had this task at an immense scale. They created art to mirror the individual, and to shape burgeoning ideas of Nationhood. To poke fun at oppressors and bathe injustice in scathing critique. To honor the past and present simultaneously, and to create a sense of monumental awe at their sheer scale. For our tradition course, we dug deeper into the artistic and social ties between two regions shaped by Spanish colonialism, who fought deeply for their independence and produced great muralists. 

The great traditions of Filipino and Filipino-American artists and the push toward recognizing National artists in the Philippines were explored in March 2024 at the Seattle Art Museum. We extensively researched the art museum’s collections, met with curators, and interfaced with local Fil-Am artists. To somewhat of our surprise and dismay, we found their collections in art front the Philippines and art featuring filipino-american artists lacking.

Instead of trying to leverage the collections the museum had, we put together an event that brought Filipino-American art in bathing bare walls in projections of art and color. As if we were chef-muralists ourselves. We didn’t wait for a solution, we made one. 

Carlos

Carlos is a famous filipino muralist whose work is featured extensively in Filipino museums. He was an artist that worked hard to build a new movement of art in the Philippines that went to define a national movement and define the national tenor of art in the Philippines. Drawing from struggles and war, from the beauty and bounty of Philippine culture from singing serenades to a landmark “progress of medicine in the Philippines.” His style of muralism was both surreal and contained. Epic proportions, stacked dimensions. He was a large fan of the style of muralism pioneered by Mexican muralists. He had a plan to meet up and connect with the famous Mexican muralist Deigo Rivera - sadly this never materialized. Both knew of each other, and both were fans of each other’s works and contributions to art.

Deigo Rivera 

One of the best and most famous Mexican muralists that helped to define a generation of Mexican art. The long-time partner of Frida Kahlo, and an inspiration to many across the world. 

In many ways we have explored the connections between Mexico and the Philippines through events centering the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade. This event though was again facilitated by a connection through colonialism and the scaffold of what was created went on to be informed by the innovations of native Filipinos and Mexican americans. Things like stills used to create spirits like tuba and tequila. There is also a legend about the development of mole, which was considered to be invented by a Filipina woman who found herself in the Philippines. 

For our team, it is a joy to think with these other historical artists. To blend culture and cuisine together and appreciate things as the art that it is. 

 COURSE 6

BABAYLAN THEATER GROUP

Just when we think we have learned all there is to know about the culinary icon and historian Doreen Fernandez, we continue to learn more. In past menu seasons, we have featured her story heavily. She was little known for too long, just as Filipino food and culture was to the world itself. But her determination and partnerships with individuals like Claude Tagay to create data and keep track of the Philippines food culture helped to preserve the cuisine and lay the foundations for artistic expression and movement going forward. 

As we have already too explored the dynamics of the Marcos Dictatorship and the consequences of Martial Law in the Philippines as it landed on Seattle’s labor organizing community through resulting in tragedy and suppression through violence; it was Doreen Fernandez’s ability to think beyond the moment and bring voice to movement that also defines her legacy beyond a food writer. Beyond what she is mostly remembered for. To another form of her art, that exists in the impermanent. Her legacy is felt both in the texts that she left behind, and in the feelings of inspiration that she intentionally did not. The Babaylan Theater group, drawing its name from the Babaylan storytellers and community leaders, subverted Marcos’ direction to silence and keep in the dark. 

Our 1-5 course has always been rooted a bit in theatrics. How full are you? Team members ask before giving you an opportunity to indulge more in the food. At our best, there is a measured flare of a performer. A warmth; a hospitality that both leaves you willing and unashamed to ask for more, alongside the prerogative to make sure no guest ever leaves our space hungry.

As Doreen Fernandez is remembered more for her legacy, we hope that this course allows you to see her beyond the texts that she has written. Beyond the charts, and maps, and regional explorations. Not a Doreen as a someone who ushered in a window to the culture for all those to see - but one that was strategic in her opaqueness. Who did things for the community that needed to hear and see it in the moment. At risk even perhaps of disappearance, to leave a legacy intentionally untraceable. 

To learn more about Doreen Fernandez and her work we encourage you to consider these other resources and publications. Even though they are getting more rare… :) 

 COURSE 7

PARUPARO

In the course that works between the land of savory and sweet, we introduce the concept of ‘paruparo’ or butterfly. Traditionally, the bridge between the world of the ancestors and the world of the living. To endure, to remember, to find spiritual guidance – to see that a sweet thing does not just emerge but is in itself the process of transformation from something perhaps more savory. 

At Archipelago, we are always able to find sweetness where it lurks locked away hidden and encapsulated by things like vegetables; needing to be coaxed out of its proverbial shell. Maybe it is something like a carrot, or a parsnip, or the vegetal world of herbs. We find the link between it all and use technique to transform flavors from unassuming perhaps in their raw state to something borderline magical. 

When we first encountered the work of Chad Monero; there was a reverence felt resonating deep in the chambers of the soul. Depicting family, ties, connections. Impressions and silhouettes, a measured surrealism, and a boldness of color with an indelible imprint of personal style.

We have also traditionally featured our friend and artist Alexa Villanueva in this position for her work operating deeply in the spiritual realm.

For us, this position marks deep meaning - and grief. It comes upon two full years of transitioning the entire menu each season. Exploring the craft as it changes with time, ingredients, and method. It also serves as a reminder to us everyday of Miranda Qassis, our beloved team member, who we lost too young. Her innovations on this halo-halo dish were felt from the moment she presented it. Using melon and creative technique, she turned our understanding of this timeless Filipino dessert on its head. She is our ancestor now, and with each night a piece of her spirit can live on in us, and continue to touch all those that come and share food and space with us.

 COURSE 8

RIZAL PARK

Sitting high atop Beacon HIll and now included in the National Register of Historic Places since 2025  is Jose Rizal Park and the connected Jose Rizal bridge. The history of Jose Rizal Park’s existence is one of persistence and continued struggle forged through the unification of Seattle’s older generation of close-knit Filipino-American community leaders. What was once land considered derelict and only suitable for dumping garbage – as the slope leading up to Rizal Park was incredibly steep – Filipino American leaders saw vision and possibility. After years of working with the city council and mounting pressure from a groundswell of Filipino community members who had built the city up through their own blood, sweat, and tears – the community finally got what it deserved in the mid 1970s. With investment from the city and capital to match raised from the Filipino American community of Seattle itself; the impossible was accomplished. 

For those who do not know, Jose Rizal is regarded as the National Hero of the Philippines. He was keen on organizing against Spanish rule. He was highly educated, a prodigy, speaking many languages and dialects. He penned countless revolutionary documents some of them while abroad and circulated letters, and founded underground secret societies in order to subvert Spanish control. 

Now - let’s blast forward 40 years. Jose Rizal Park, during October which is National Filipino History month, is vandalized. A copper plate and time-capsule sealed behind it are burglarized. A generation of Filipino elders, and their legacy, dishonored. But the younger generation of Filipino Americans in the city did not just sit idly by. Many, in coalition with each other across different organizations in the city, of generations young and old, were brought together to join the fight to restore the Park’s legacy. Seized the moment not only to talk about the legacy of the Park, but to uplift Seattle’s most vulnerable populations in the process and make an intentional decision to talk about investment, city resources, and neglect by design. About the consequences that are inevitable when a city fails to care for their most vulnerable populations. 

Siklab was born. Jazz festivals to commemorate the legacy of Rizal, Park gatherings and cleanups, story and history sharing sessions  and a newly reinvigorated sense of community was established. We have to thank our very own Ronnette Sanchez our sous-chef and community organizer extraordinaire and many others in our community for making this possible. To keep fighting and reactivating shared cultural spaces, while also keeping precision and intentionality in our demands.

 COURSE 9

RIZAL CLUB

Woah the CID was popping, as we know from reporters, it was like its own Barrio in the Philippines. But it was popping and perhaps locking too; quite literally, as some of the best Jazz Musicians rolled up to the Rizal Club. Founded in the late 1930s by a Filipino American (name) and then purchased by Charlie Beale became a hotspot for all the hottest bands. And, for getting DOWN. In operation through the 1940s, they have an extensive record as they’ve been well documented through an incredible club Photographer. 

While Seattle at the time was heavily segregated and opportunities were scarce, people had the opportunity to unwind and mingle, and dance dance dance. Considered the pinnacle of immoral behavior to some, taxi dancing clubs were popular. Called so because one could pay dancers for a dance if they needed to. Creating a space of joy in this way was an act of defiance just dressed up neatly and ready to rumble.

Sometimes, pictures are worth way more words than text. In this situation we can turn to the archives and instantly see ourselves there.  

 COURSE 10

THE BOXER

It's no secret that the Philippines has produced some of the best boxers in the world. But it was Washington by way of Tacoma and Bremerton that brought the love of the sport to the Philippines. There were very famous Filipino-American boxers that landed in Seattle and seemed to fall into the sport as it was a way both to exercise creative competition, earn money, and travel. Here we highlight Mariano Guiang a famous boxer who toured the pacific northwest, he settled down in Bremerton where he started a boxing academy. This boxing academy trained titans. 

For more information we would love to share essays on this written by FANHS own Devin Cabanilla ! 

Here, we have our Kamayan course, which for purposes of the evening we are framing as a “one” “two” punch of flavor. Kamayan which translates to “eaten with the hands” is a traditional way of eating that we always like to highlight with each menu iteration. 

NOT YET VICTORIO, NOT YET.

While Victorio Velasco is best known for being the creator and editor in chief of the Filipino Forum. He was also a creative, a poet, and someone deeply connected to and involved with community affairs and issues of justice. Among his collections in the archives are papers that demonstrate his interest in housing and racial justice through the urban league, his previous work in the canneries as an Alaskero made him acutely aware of differences in treatment and value of his labor and white counterparts. His newsletters circulating in the canneries helped build community around issues of justice and injustice and are a track record of his steadfast commitment to improving the conditions and connectivity of Filipino communities everywhere. 

His experience, arguably made him somewhat of a passionate idealist. One of the most well known Filipino Americans in Seattle, he also drew criticism and pause for it. And the poet Benjamin Domingo in 1968, helps us bring into question if his ideals have come to fruition. He asks us to consider the work of Velasco and his dreams being incomplete - and to contemplate the repercussions thereof.

To this point, we agree and wish to respond. We want and so desperately need the story of Filipino Americans and Filipinos here in Seattle and the Pacific Northwest to live on. To be documented. To be a resource for all of us when we need to find our way and our spark. To find value in the everyday.

Thank you for dining with us this evening at Archipelago. May light, blossoms, and ease find your spirit Chelidonian.